Good Bye Thomas. Safe travelling home. We will all miss the laughs and your strong spirit. Thanks for you energy and skilled workmanship. Keep up the building.
Also welcome to Laurene who arrived today and will be with us for the next few weeks.
Sunday, August 1, 2010
Tuesday, July 27, 2010
Timber Framing
All the hard work on the framing bed is paying off and the timber frame is going up quickly!Monday, July 19, 2010
Holidays
Welcome back to everyone after our well deserved week off. Unfortunately Grant will not be returning.
Grant we miss you and wish you all the best in the future. Thank you for your time with us and your touches can be seen all over our building and site - Take care and stay in touch
Grant we miss you and wish you all the best in the future. Thank you for your time with us and your touches can be seen all over our building and site - Take care and stay in touch
Sunday, June 13, 2010
Week 10
Week 10
Week 10 saw plenty of rain as well as a transition for some of us from stone work to the timberframe. Though the increased precipitation muddied up the site, Thomas and Ken continued to finish the stone steps leading up to the double (party) doors. Once the quoins were placed, Ken moved to front door area, where Alastair and Peter began setting the first boulders in place.
On the timber frame, Alastair and Sam had been working on some of the saddle joints at the framing bed. Some tips related to saddle joints from Graeme, Alastair, and Sam include the following:
Keep the beam secured in one place, then rig the post to slide into and away from the point of contact.
Check the joint's fit, then mark the wood to be cut from the saddle. A scibe can be used to rough in the shape of the joint.
With a gouge, it is possible to 'twist' the bevel as you cut in order to slice the fibers more easily.
Cassandra and Noeline worked on the internal urbanite retaining wall at the beginning of the week, then created a saddle joint station inside the wind tunnel with Karen.
Grant began the week starting and finishing one of the roundwood shouldered mortise-and-tenon joints, then started to set up two more posts against the scaffolding for the next two joints to be cut by himself and Graeme. It takes some time to make sure that the scaffolding, post, and beam are all plumb, level, and square to the ground and to eachother. From Grant and Graeme, a checklist for setting up the joints follows:
Begin by cutting the post to length, leaving a few centimeters extra at the bottom.
Since there are saddle joints at the top of the post (already partially cut), measure down from the bottom of where the finished saddle will be to the top of the mortise to be cut and draw a line. Since our tenons are 17cm long, we then measured down 17cm to the bottom of the tenon and drew another line.
The tenons were cut with the beams still relatively near the ground. They were marked and knocked out quickly. To ensure the tenons were uniform, we created a plywood template to fit over the tenon as it was being cut. We had a matching template for the mortise as well.
To keep the posts from rocking or rotating as they were being cut against the scaffolding, we screwed a large wooden plate to the bottom of the post. Once the post was stood up, we hammered long nails through the plate and into the ground. We used rachet straps to secure the post to the scaffold, then braced it also with planks.
After hoisting the beams to the top of the scaffolding, we raised/lowered the scaffolding so that the tenons would intersect the post at the correct height (using the lines we had drawn on the post earlier).
The trickiest part of aligning the post and beam was making sure that the beams would intersect the post at a right angle. we made extensive use of the plumb-bob, level, string lines, framing square, and their keen eyesight to line everything up nearly 10' in the air!
After the beam was at right angles to the post (horizontally and vertically), we could begin cutting the mortise. A template and a bit of chainsaw work make the initial square slot rather simple. After this is cut, however, the beam must be slid back and forth, then the larger shoulder slot is cut to match the intersecting timber's shape.
As with the saddle joint, fitting the roundwood mortise-and-tenon takes plenty of time. Most of the tips for cutting the joints are the same.
On Friday, Sam, Alastair, Graeme, Grant, and Paul made final cuts to the A-frame and raised the bents in place. It was quite rewarding to see the accessory structure take shape so quickly after lifting it into place. That evening, after watching Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid, Graeme and Grant shaved their beards down to awesome, Redford-esque moustaches.
Saturday morning, the group left for the Boyne Valley to visit Newgrange and Knowth. After seeing these great neolithic wonders, we then wandered to Trim Castle for a tour of the keep, followed by a visit to the Hill of Tara.
Week 10 saw plenty of rain as well as a transition for some of us from stone work to the timberframe. Though the increased precipitation muddied up the site, Thomas and Ken continued to finish the stone steps leading up to the double (party) doors. Once the quoins were placed, Ken moved to front door area, where Alastair and Peter began setting the first boulders in place.
On the timber frame, Alastair and Sam had been working on some of the saddle joints at the framing bed. Some tips related to saddle joints from Graeme, Alastair, and Sam include the following:
Keep the beam secured in one place, then rig the post to slide into and away from the point of contact.
Check the joint's fit, then mark the wood to be cut from the saddle. A scibe can be used to rough in the shape of the joint.
With a gouge, it is possible to 'twist' the bevel as you cut in order to slice the fibers more easily.
Cassandra and Noeline worked on the internal urbanite retaining wall at the beginning of the week, then created a saddle joint station inside the wind tunnel with Karen.
Grant began the week starting and finishing one of the roundwood shouldered mortise-and-tenon joints, then started to set up two more posts against the scaffolding for the next two joints to be cut by himself and Graeme. It takes some time to make sure that the scaffolding, post, and beam are all plumb, level, and square to the ground and to eachother. From Grant and Graeme, a checklist for setting up the joints follows:
Begin by cutting the post to length, leaving a few centimeters extra at the bottom.
Since there are saddle joints at the top of the post (already partially cut), measure down from the bottom of where the finished saddle will be to the top of the mortise to be cut and draw a line. Since our tenons are 17cm long, we then measured down 17cm to the bottom of the tenon and drew another line.
The tenons were cut with the beams still relatively near the ground. They were marked and knocked out quickly. To ensure the tenons were uniform, we created a plywood template to fit over the tenon as it was being cut. We had a matching template for the mortise as well.
To keep the posts from rocking or rotating as they were being cut against the scaffolding, we screwed a large wooden plate to the bottom of the post. Once the post was stood up, we hammered long nails through the plate and into the ground. We used rachet straps to secure the post to the scaffold, then braced it also with planks.
After hoisting the beams to the top of the scaffolding, we raised/lowered the scaffolding so that the tenons would intersect the post at the correct height (using the lines we had drawn on the post earlier).
The trickiest part of aligning the post and beam was making sure that the beams would intersect the post at a right angle. we made extensive use of the plumb-bob, level, string lines, framing square, and their keen eyesight to line everything up nearly 10' in the air!
After the beam was at right angles to the post (horizontally and vertically), we could begin cutting the mortise. A template and a bit of chainsaw work make the initial square slot rather simple. After this is cut, however, the beam must be slid back and forth, then the larger shoulder slot is cut to match the intersecting timber's shape.
As with the saddle joint, fitting the roundwood mortise-and-tenon takes plenty of time. Most of the tips for cutting the joints are the same.
On Friday, Sam, Alastair, Graeme, Grant, and Paul made final cuts to the A-frame and raised the bents in place. It was quite rewarding to see the accessory structure take shape so quickly after lifting it into place. That evening, after watching Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid, Graeme and Grant shaved their beards down to awesome, Redford-esque moustaches.
Saturday morning, the group left for the Boyne Valley to visit Newgrange and Knowth. After seeing these great neolithic wonders, we then wandered to Trim Castle for a tour of the keep, followed by a visit to the Hill of Tara.
Sunday, May 16, 2010
Week 6
This week we started the timber frame and the stonework! The framers selected all the posts, beams, and tiebeams. Which is easier said than done seeming as how there are about 200 logs to choose from! They also cut saddle joints in the top of the northern posts to recieve the beams. The stonework went great with the help from ken the mason. Its great fun and an even greater challenge to build the wall, its like a giant 3-d jigsaw puzzle!
IRISH STONE WALLS
Anatomy of a wall-
Through stones- have 2 faces, as they are the whole width of the wall. they go right through.
Bond stones- go 2/3 of the way through the wall. One face only. Very important element of ANY wall.
Face stones- Form the main face of the wall.
Quoins- Large stones at either end of the corners of a wall.
Pinnings- Stones that help to hold in place/ keep level larger stones: and to stabilize the whole wall. These should be added from the back.
Core/Hearting- these stones have no use on the face of the wall but are essential in stabilizing.
GUIDELINES FOR BUILDING-
A bond/through stone should be placed every meter in a stone wall.
Sort the stone by eye before you begin, then select your quoins, through stones, bond stones, face stones, core/hearting.
Lay stons on their natural beds.
Lay stones level and plumb at the face, with the bed lenght on the face greater than their hieght. EVEN IF UNEVEN IN SHAPE.
Keep an area of 2feet on either side of the wall.
Stones of equal height should not be placed beside each other unless they are low/thin stones.
Break vertical and horizontal running joints as soon as possible.
keep horizontal joints level.
IRISH STONE WALLS
Anatomy of a wall-
Through stones- have 2 faces, as they are the whole width of the wall. they go right through.
Bond stones- go 2/3 of the way through the wall. One face only. Very important element of ANY wall.
Face stones- Form the main face of the wall.
Quoins- Large stones at either end of the corners of a wall.
Pinnings- Stones that help to hold in place/ keep level larger stones: and to stabilize the whole wall. These should be added from the back.
Core/Hearting- these stones have no use on the face of the wall but are essential in stabilizing.
GUIDELINES FOR BUILDING-
A bond/through stone should be placed every meter in a stone wall.
Sort the stone by eye before you begin, then select your quoins, through stones, bond stones, face stones, core/hearting.
Lay stons on their natural beds.
Lay stones level and plumb at the face, with the bed lenght on the face greater than their hieght. EVEN IF UNEVEN IN SHAPE.
Keep an area of 2feet on either side of the wall.
Stones of equal height should not be placed beside each other unless they are low/thin stones.
Break vertical and horizontal running joints as soon as possible.
keep horizontal joints level.
A Frame
We selected the poles for the first A frame and laid them out on our 4x4m framing square. The A frame consists of two cruck posts, a floor beam, cross beam and two dowel posts. First we cut a lap joint for the cruck posts where they will meet and hold the ridge pole. Once that joint was complete we strapped the frame to the square, laid the floor beam in place and marked the joints to be cut with the bottom of the cruck posts. The method we found most effective for cutting this type of lap joint was to cut each side of the joint with a saw and then at several points in between. We then removed the waste wood with a chisel to make sure the flat surfaces of all the joints were on the same plane we used a level to make a plumb line on the end of all the poles. We also tried using a chalk line but the curved shaped of the poles made that technique quite difficult.
Once the floor beam was fitted into the cruck posts we put the dowel posts in place and cut the mitre joints so they fit snug to the cruck posts and lap joints so they fit into the floor beam. The tenon joints were the next joints to be cut into the top of the dowel posts where the shoulder beams would eventually slot on with their corresponding mortise joints. The final beam to be put in place was the cross beam which needed to be high enough above the floor beam to allow Sam to walk through without ducking! As the cross beam isn't load bearing we used gouged joints to fit it in place with the cruck posts.
The final task was to secure the frame with the 1 inch oak dowels we made with draw knives and the dowel maker. We drilled holes in all the joints with an auger, made 3 inch wedges and 2 inch cuts in either end of the dowels which protruded 1 inch either side of the joints. When all the dowels were knocked into place we moved the frame off our framing square and repeated the whole process again for the second A frame!
Once the floor beam was fitted into the cruck posts we put the dowel posts in place and cut the mitre joints so they fit snug to the cruck posts and lap joints so they fit into the floor beam. The tenon joints were the next joints to be cut into the top of the dowel posts where the shoulder beams would eventually slot on with their corresponding mortise joints. The final beam to be put in place was the cross beam which needed to be high enough above the floor beam to allow Sam to walk through without ducking! As the cross beam isn't load bearing we used gouged joints to fit it in place with the cruck posts.
The final task was to secure the frame with the 1 inch oak dowels we made with draw knives and the dowel maker. We drilled holes in all the joints with an auger, made 3 inch wedges and 2 inch cuts in either end of the dowels which protruded 1 inch either side of the joints. When all the dowels were knocked into place we moved the frame off our framing square and repeated the whole process again for the second A frame!
Sunday, May 9, 2010
Week 5
This week has been another busy week.
The first big announcement is that we have FINALLY finished peeling all of the logs that will be used for rafters and posts in the house. I don't know how the rest of the gang feels, but there were times I would see wood grain when I closed my eyes. While it was a great experience in learning the different ways to peel a log, I'm glad to have it out of the way so that now we can start using them.
We have also started putting in the foundation for the 'A' frame which is rumored to be possibly inhabited by our local tree climber, Sam. It's only natural that Sam would want to live in this thing because while he does love trees, and that is what the 'A' frame is made of, he's also leading the project from start to finish.
Grant the Viking has finished putting in the posts for the timber framed roof for the cob oven. With some consulting with Jim and a little help from me, Grant was able to complete the second phase of the project before he had to bake pizza that night.
Karen was busy in the garden this week and got a lot of planting and seeding down. We can't wait to be able to offset the our grocery shopping with the produce straight from our garden.
Karen also moved the compost pile to the back of the 'green tunnel' in order to create more space for another bed for the garden.
With the foundation laid, we got to work on pouring the posts cement foundations. These cement pillars will also give us the level of which to stack the wall's foundation stones up to.
While we have been working hard a few of us went off to hike up one of the main views in the area, and the main view of the house; Keeper Hill. Even though we followed the directions we still ended up getting... not lost, but not exactly to the correct spot we intended. With the help of some local knowledge we were able to find the spot we were looking for in order to start our hike and set off for the peak of the Keeper. It was rough going for a bit of the hike, but we found a nice big trail (read as: road) to finish up the last bit of the hike. We got to the top just in time to see a beautiful sunset and to take a few goofy pics.
After the hike down we also found the local pub where we talked to a few locals and shared a much deserved beer.
I'll be posting some more about the Rumford fireplace in my next entry, but for a short update:
We are going to have to redesign the smoke shelf as well as the flue for it, so that means tearing down part of the current setup which I know a lot of use don't want to do.
Head over to the Picasa pics and see what all went down this past week.
-Thomas
The first big announcement is that we have FINALLY finished peeling all of the logs that will be used for rafters and posts in the house. I don't know how the rest of the gang feels, but there were times I would see wood grain when I closed my eyes. While it was a great experience in learning the different ways to peel a log, I'm glad to have it out of the way so that now we can start using them.
We have also started putting in the foundation for the 'A' frame which is rumored to be possibly inhabited by our local tree climber, Sam. It's only natural that Sam would want to live in this thing because while he does love trees, and that is what the 'A' frame is made of, he's also leading the project from start to finish.
Grant the Viking has finished putting in the posts for the timber framed roof for the cob oven. With some consulting with Jim and a little help from me, Grant was able to complete the second phase of the project before he had to bake pizza that night.
Karen was busy in the garden this week and got a lot of planting and seeding down. We can't wait to be able to offset the our grocery shopping with the produce straight from our garden.
Karen also moved the compost pile to the back of the 'green tunnel' in order to create more space for another bed for the garden.
With the foundation laid, we got to work on pouring the posts cement foundations. These cement pillars will also give us the level of which to stack the wall's foundation stones up to.
While we have been working hard a few of us went off to hike up one of the main views in the area, and the main view of the house; Keeper Hill. Even though we followed the directions we still ended up getting... not lost, but not exactly to the correct spot we intended. With the help of some local knowledge we were able to find the spot we were looking for in order to start our hike and set off for the peak of the Keeper. It was rough going for a bit of the hike, but we found a nice big trail (read as: road) to finish up the last bit of the hike. We got to the top just in time to see a beautiful sunset and to take a few goofy pics.
After the hike down we also found the local pub where we talked to a few locals and shared a much deserved beer.
I'll be posting some more about the Rumford fireplace in my next entry, but for a short update:
We are going to have to redesign the smoke shelf as well as the flue for it, so that means tearing down part of the current setup which I know a lot of use don't want to do.
Head over to the Picasa pics and see what all went down this past week.
-Thomas
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